HOSPITALITY SPOTLIGHT
/HOOK RESTAURANT
A Different Kind of Unsung Hero
by Michelle Livingstone
(click images to enlarge)
Today, I bring you one of the unsung heroes of the waterfront at English Bay. Even in the cold winter months, and perhaps then especially so, as you watch the sun go down on a colder town, ushering in the magic of twilight in the West End.
The space of which I speak is Hook, and you’re no doubt used to seeing sun-screened bodies laughing over copious cocktails on the beautiful, spacious patio outside, its huge glass doors pulled back and the cool, airy interior beckoning anyone who has tired of the heat.
Eva, one half of the super duo, adorning the backdrop of a Paul Morstad original artwork.
But it's not just the desirable location that draws the folks; it's the wonderfully warm, friendly faces that serve. Having recently undergone a change in management, we now have the dynamic duo of Theodore Karikios and Eva Munroe, who could possibly be superheroes in a Marvel movie.
Theo is a wonderful guy who not only knows what your favourite tipple is, but also says hello to you in the supermarket on a Saturday. Eva is a goddess. An infectious smile and a love of conversation, she effortlessly floats around the restaurant, delighting in attending to all the customers and making them happy.
Obviously, they have great food too, courtesy of the chef, Jeremy Coogan, whose culinary expertise and delight in food ensure that all the plates return empty.
As you might imagine, the menu is big on seafood, and is notable for its raw oyster bar, but also features, amongst many options, crab legs with melted butter ($18), two types of mussel dishes ($27/$28), a sous vide octopus with trimmings ($40) and of course, good old fish and chips ($25).
Theo, embracing oysters and assistant manager status with ease.
But it's not all ocean-caught fare; determined to cater to everyone at your table, Hook offers non-fishy delights such as the deluxe smash burger ($25), a striploin with peppercorn sauce ($42), and a Cajun chicken Caesar salad ($23). There are also a few vegetarian options, such as beets and greens ($18), yam fries ($12) and roasted seasonal vegetables ($14).
If you can't quite handle a full meal, why not dive into the Hook, Line and Sinker, a heady trio of oysters nestled in three separate shot glasses, one with Caesar, one with champagne and mignonette, and the other, a gin and tonic.
Hook took over the 3,500-square-foot space that had been home to Milestones for 27 years, opening its doors in July 2017 under the watchful guidance of Michael Gayman. Gayman owned the celebrated Blind Sparrow at the other end of Denman Street until its closure in 2018, when it joined with Hook and the two became one. Gayman sold the venture to Justin Zhao in 2019. Zhao, who also owns Library Square, continues to ensure excellence at the Hook.
The Hook, Line and Sinker Trio.
Delicious House Spiced Fries
The happy hour is every day, from 3 to 5 p.m., and removing the hump from Wednesdays, it's happy hour all day long.
But the delights of Hook doesn't stop at the food, view, or staff. The pool table is amazing, and one of the very few in Vancouver, where you can play with space to spare and be unafraid of backing into someone or unwittingly taking the head off a fresh pint.
In summer, the space really comes alive. The inside is bustling and the outside packed. Pets are welcome on the patio, but drinkers beware: One particular evening I had a small and fervent love affair with a two-by-four-foot furry ball of happiness. I was literally thinking of swapping my husband for it (joking, honey!). The owner soon realized, scooped up my tiny fluff-covered beating heart, and swept out with no looking back. Back to the pool table, then.,
Even pre-summer, the West End is looking good from hook’s patio.
The music is always wonderful, a sumptuous mix of oldies, goldies and sing-alongs. I recall a lovely encounter last year, when a song I hadn't heard in an age started playing. I was soon singing, swaying, and laughing like an excitable child on my bar stool by the window, when my husband drew my attention to a lady outside, also singing, dancing, and laughing with me (she could hear the music from the outdoor speakers). It was one of those heartwarming social interactions that the West End is renowned for, and it still makes me happy every time I think about it.
In conclusion, the food is good, the crew are excellent, the drinks sublime, the atmosphere cool, and the view superb.
I leave you with a line from the 1994 iconic Blue Travelers song.
“Cos the hook brings you back, on this you can rely”.
Yes. It certainly does.
Hook Restaurant
1210 Denman Street
604-620-4668
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