THEN & NOW

A DAVIE STREET MEMOIR
While Some Things Change, Much Remains

by Daryl Nelson

Long before McDonald’s, Burger King and Starbucks we had lots of fast-food establishments in Vancouver. They were called grills, diners, or luncheonettes in the case of S.S. Kresge and F.W. Woolworth’s. Usually, they were staffed by waitresses in a uniform and cap with a pencil behind their ears, who greeted you with a no-nonsense “What’ll it be?”.

Even today west enders can tell you exactly where this corner is in this 1928 photo, with the davie renovatory (?) now the Downtown Flower Shop and the house behind it the Gurkha Himalayan Kitchen. (Vancouver Archives Photo)

The classic diner in Vancouver was The Aristocratic, which had restaurants all over town. In spite of its name, The Aristocratic served a basic menu of burger and fries, apple pie and coffee and all-day breakfasts – which was common fare in all the grills in town. 

Well, that brings me to the topic of Upper Davie Street (between Burrard and Jervis) – one of the few Vancouver neighbourhood streets that have remained virtually unchanged for decades. It’s authenticity rests with the mostly small owner-operated businesses which cater almost entirely to West Enders. Pretty much anything you could need is there – dry cleaners, groceries, a drug store, a vape store for people who vape and an adult store for people who do adult things. 

the heart of davie village, created by artist jim balakshin, welcomes everyone to the village.

Now if you want the old-time diner feel, head to Denny’s Restaurant at Davie and Thurlow Streets – open 24 hours a day for shift workers and insomniacs with middle of the night cravings.  The menu is what you could expect – burger and fries, BLT’s and who could forget the “Grand Slam” breakfast?  Fortunately, for those of us of a certain vintage there is a 55+ menu.

The staff is friendly and very professional – most servers have worked there for years and greet you like family. In my case, they know where I want to sit and what I want to order – and usually within 5 or 10 minutes it’s on the table. 

On the subject of this “gay village” on Davie Street. Years ago, I was camping in the East Kootenays when I met two young, gay men. They were devoted to each other but unfortunately one had serious health issues which required specialized care not available in Cranbrook, so they decided to relocate to the coast. When I asked where on the coast they wanted to live they said without any hesitation – The West End!  I was touched!

though things do change, much remains, including the neighbourhood vibe.

A friend of mine thinks that Davie’s gay vibe scares away property developers. Yikes! Have we found developers kryptonite?  Can the Broadway Plan be stopped by blanketing the west side with pride flags and rainbow sidewalks? One wonders.

So, what are we to make of Davie Street? Coming in from Burrard, one is aware that this is entirely a unique place. The bars, the lights, the freedom, the safety – this is your neighbourhood! 

You are a proud West Ender, where diversity is welcome and celebrated – you belong here and are valued for who you are.  Welcome home!