HOSPITALITY SPOTLIGHT
/93 Coffee
by Jacqui Birchall
(click images to enlarge)
93 Coffee is a delightful, delicious hub of Japanese-style tranquillity, situated at the south entrance to the Denman Place Mall. What strikes one is the attractive, spacious interior and the sense of calm. This is not a loud, crowded coffee spot
brothers Hisa (left) and Rintaro Kawai. (KDM Photo)
In conversation with the charming manager Rintaro Kawai, I learned that 93 Coffee is a traditional Kissaten-style restaurant. These are Japanese cafes that are traditionally sophisticated, quiet retreats. This is not your usual Japanese restaurant, either sushi or tempura.
Kissaten-style cafes have defining features. These include hand-brewed coffee, comfortable tables with waiters, very special breakfasts (93 Cafe features a build-your-own breakfast), and comfort food typical of Kissaten-style cafes. These include Napolitan (ketchup-based spaghetti), thick egg sandwiches, Curry Rice, and Teishoku (a set meal that includes the main dish, rice, soup, salad, and pickles). There are several Teishoku to choose from. Kevin, our editor, enjoys the Ginger Pork Teishoku, while I enjoyed the Yakiniku Teishoku.
My friend Will enjoys the Morning Special. Build Your Own Breakfast. Also typical of Kissaten cafes, for these creative breakfasts, one chooses onigiri, toast, ham and cheese sandwiches or pizza toast (the last two are an extra $3), eggs of your choice, sunny side, scrambled or a Japanese omelette (the omelette is an extra $1). The breakfast includes a mini salad, miso or chicken soup, fruit cup and a yogurt cup. Available 8-11
Four Donburi dishes are featured, and the homemade dessert and parfait selection is too tempting.
The delicious desserts are all made in-house. The recipe for raw cheesecake was gifted to Kumi by one of her favourite Tokyo restaurants. Raw means uncooked.
Rintaro tells me their signature dishes are 93 Omurice, a typical Japanese dish, and the raw cheesecake. The very famous Japanese egg sandwich is on the menu; it can also be enjoyed with ham. Avocado toast, pizza toast and even ice cream and fruit toast.
There are four Japanese-style curries and three spaghetti dishes, all prepared the Japanese way.
The drink menu is extensive. A good selection of teas and coffees and Sapporo Japanese beer.
The Yukata Tea Room menu features authentic teas sourced directly from Japan, including matcha lattes, hojicha lattes, tiramisu, and specialty coffee jelly drinks. Just watching the staff preparing these beverages is like watching art being created.
93 Coffee also offers a Tea Lani menu, where they “proudly” offer the highest quality organic tea, handcrafted locally in Vancouver
93 Cafe is owned and operated by the Kawai family, mother Kumi, eldest son and manager Rintaro, sister Mizuki, and brothers Ryu and Hisa. The family emigrated from Japan 13 years ago. Mother Kumi wanted her children to learn English and to improve their chances in life.
Kumi arrived alone with her four children while her husband stayed in Japan to continue working. Rintaro shares his love and respect for his mother, telling me that she took care of all four of them on her own, working hard in a new country.
I asked RIntaro about his first days in Canada. He explained that on the first day at school, he didn’t know how to ask to use the washroom.
Kumi had been a restaurant manager in Japan, and her dream was to open a restaurant in Vancouver. Rintaro tells me her children wanted to help her make this dream come true, and three years ago it did. The family recently opened a stand in the Harbour Centre food court serving beverages, baked goods, and small meals.
93 comes from Kumi’s name. The two syllables mean 93 in Japanese.
This is truly a West End story. Rintaro graduated from King George Secondary School and now attends SFU, where he is studying business.
Mizuki, Ryu, and Hisa are currently students at King George Secondary and work at 93 Cafe, the smiling, welcoming faces there.
CBC has produced a delightful video all about 93Coffee and the Kawai family. Search “93 Coffee” on YouTube to view.
93 Coffee. Cafe and Eatery
1789 Comox St, inside the Denman Place Mall
778-379.5926
Website
Hours: Sunday to Thursday; 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. / Friday and Saturday: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Open daily, including holidays
