HOSPITALITY SPOTLIGHT
/TWO NEW VIETNAMESE RESTAURANTS ON DENMAN
by Jacqui Birchall
(click images to enlarge)
Denman Street is home to two new Vietnamese restaurants: S.A.M.E. at 976 Denman Street and No Ne Kitchen and Bar at 867 Denman Street.
S.A.M.E. VIETNAMESE EATERY
S.A.M.E. replaces the much-loved Ong Ba Restaurant. The charming new owners, chef Ken and manager Lisa, took over the premises from Ong Ba's owners. They inherited the menus and the recipes, but Ken has added some of his own dishes, such as tomato, crab, and vermicelli soup. Lisa shared that the Ong Ba owners helped with the transition.
Opening night at s.a.m.e. was a big, and colourfully decorated, event for friends and family. (Jacqui Birchall Photos)
My favourite dish remains the Wonton Phǒ. Absolutely delicious!
S.A.M.E. may refer to the same menu, but it is the initials of Ken and Lisa’s four daughters, two of whom will work in the restaurant on weekends.
Lisa shared that Ken has always been a wonderful cook in the family, preparing delicious celebratory meals for family and friends. Lisa was previously in business for herself, but they always dreamed of opening their own restaurant.
And then they were offered 976 Denman. They knew the On Ba owners. Lisa felt it was a sign. “When things come to you in such a way, and everything happens so naturally, you know it’s the right time.”
the interior of s.a.m.e.
Ken and Lisa, both born in Vietnam, describe the menu as Northern Vietnam style. Great phǒ of course , the famous coffee, Bánh Mí and comfort eats. They describe S.A.M.E. as “pint-sized, neighbourhood eatery serving up both phǒ, bahn mi sandwiches and other familiar Vietnamese eats.”
Lisa has changed the interior to create her own style. The comfortable patio is welcoming.
Their goal is to create a restaurant that families will want to come to, that their daughters will be proud of, and Lisa wants her girls to know their hardworking parents are successful.
The official opening for friends and family brought lion dancers for prosperity and beautiful flower arrangements. The restaurant continues to be very popular.
Both Ken and Lisa are camera-shy. So no photo.
NO NE KITCHEN AND BAR
When I requested an interview with the manager at the very new No Ne Kitchen and Bar, Elly, one of the owners, emailed me a description of the new spot. “No Ne Kitchen & Bar is a Vietnamese-inspired restaurant that brings authentic flavours, great hospitality, and a vibrant community atmosphere to Vancouver. Our goal is to create a welcoming space where guests can experience thoughtfully crafted dishes, creative cocktails, and the rich cultural stories behind Vietnamese cuisine.@nonekitchenandbar”
No Ne owners Elly and andrew..
No Ne means being full, well-fed, happy and content with the food, Elly explained.
The interior of this cozy new spot is stunning. Original art fills the walls, some commissioned in Vietnam and some here. All show Hanoi street scenes. The big Hanoi street scene lights up at night. Much of the interior design shows vestiges of the the 1970s and 1980s. Ration books, ration lineups. Elly tells me those were times when people shared, chatted, and enjoyed neighbours’ company, times rich in human connections.
The rear of the restaurant resembles a small alley in Vietnam and every corner tells a story. There is even old Vietnamese money on display.
The lamps on the tables come from Vietnam; the metal chopstick holders are covered in old Vietnamese stamps; and the dishes are from Lai-Thieu, a famous Vietnamese village known for its pottery and ceramics.
The menu is page after page describing wonderful dishes and beverages. The artwork is stunning, based on lettering of the 70s and 80s in Vietnam, where everything was still hand-drawn. Elly and chef Andrew want their restaurant to resemble an authentic street stand.
The wide variety of dishes makes choosing difficult.
Elly and her husband Andrew (who brings 10 years of restaurant ownership in Vietnam, in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City), have created a restaurant that focuses on a wide variety of northern Vietnamese dishes. Elly shared that while Southern Vietnamese food leans into sweetness and aromatics, “in the north, we lean into natural flavours and fresh ingredients”. The northern style, Elly continues, is much subtler and more balanced than the southern style.
Elly and Andrew import many foodstuffs from Vietnam to ensure authentic flavour. Green rice from Tu-Le, coffee beans from Dak Lak province, and star anise from Lang-Son province.
artwork depicting hanoi street scenes adorn the walls of no ne.
The phǒ broth is simmered for 16 hours. I asked Elly to describe their signature dishes,
Hanoi-style grilled pork vermicelli, Tung’s (Andrew’s) signature beef bone marrow phǒ in a stone bowl. The stone bowl is hot, and one dips the slices of tenderloin into it to the desired doneness before dropping them into the phǒ. The tenderloin beef is of high quality. Elly noted that the noodles with fermented shrimp paste are not for the faint of heart.
There are vegetarian options. The cocktails are creative and include a cocktail phô with gin and Cointreau. There are various non-alcoholic beverages, matcha and teas, a large selection of coffees, and delicious desserts.
Elly chose the location because it was the right size, and she likes the door for its rustic, nostalgic quality. It took five months for a then-pregnant Elly to finalize the lease and redecorate.
Check Instagram (via Facebook) for the latest information on new dishes.
As I was interviewing Elly in No Ne, customers kept coming to tell me how wonderful the food is!
No Ne opened on May 23. Not to be missed!
S.A.M.E. VIETNAMESE
976 Denman
11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. daily
p: 604.620.5595 (reservations not accepted)
e: samevietnamese@gmail.com.
Website
NO NE KITCHEN AND BAR
867 Denman
Mon. - Thurs 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. / Fri. to Sun. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
p: 604.632.0022 (reservations recommended)
e: nonnekitchenbar@gmail.com
Website
